The Mawddach Trail

 

Having had a couple of dodgy years healthwise it is now time to don my hiking boots and breathe in the fresh air of the countryside.  Walking strengthens the bones and muscles and is the perfect treatment for a wide range of health issues.  What's not to love?  Covid and it's associated Lockdowns has meant staying very local for 18 months but as much as I love my little piece of Somerset the soul yearns for a change of scene.  Might this be the perfect time to undertake The Mawddach Trail, made famous by Julia Bradbury in her BBC series of railway walks back in 2016.  The flat 10 mile path runs along the Mawddach estuary from Dolgellau to Barmouth ending with a walk across the Barmouth Railway Bridge.

Unfortunately engineering works have closed the bridge to both trains and pedestrians for 3 months from mid-September to mid-December 2021.  No problem, a rail replacement bus completes the 20 mile trip around the estuary to Morfa Mawddach in 30 minutes and only costs £1.70 with my senior rail card.  It means completing the walk in what is considered to be the "wrong" direction but for someone who  rarely does anything the right way round this should pose no problem.  

As the mini-bus made its way down the estuary from Dolgellau to Morfa Mawddach Railway Station I wonder what I have let myself in for. It seems a very, very long way viewing it from the comfort of the bus.  Then, before I know it, the bus is turning into the car park at this remote little station. In its hey day, before the Beeching cuts, this was a major junction with 4 platforms.  Now it is unstaffed with just a single platform, and even that is out of bounds at the present time.

Fortunately the toilet block, situated at the trail's end (or beginning) is still open for those needing to "Spend A Penny".  Facilities are very basic but include everything that is required.  Notices request that only 1 person at a time use the cubicles in order to maintain "social distancing".  Penny spent it is time to head off through the woods.

Piles of logs can be seen to the right of the path and the sound of an electric saw indicates that logging is still in process not too far away.  But the air is crisp and it feels good to be stretching my legs after spending so may hurs on train and coach the day before.  A couple of experienced hikers pass me heading in the opposite direction and I wonder what time they must have set out from Dolgellau to have arrived at this point by 10.45am.

 

After a mile the path emerges from the woods at a small car park and picnic area.  Stretching in front is long metal bridge, a reminder that this was once the route of the railway line. On New Year's Day 1926 it was reported that "Mountainous seas swept the Merionethshire coast.  Near Barmouth and Penmaenpool the sea flooded the railway for over two miles and the service between Dolgelly and Barmouth had to be suspended, passengers and mails being carried by road motors.  Arthog railway bridge was damaged".

 

The sun shines on the red hawthorns as the water laps gently against the shore. In the distance I notice a couple of canoers - only visible due to their bright orange life jackets.  Stunning views to left and right keep my camera busy.  Being a very keen but very novice photographer means I am never certain whether the settings are right.  How disappointed I would be if these wonderful views were ruined by my lack of knowledge. Looking back Barmouth Bridge can be seen stretching across the estuary.

 

In 1943 a lady was taking the train from Dolgelly to Barmouth but when she reached the station she found her dog had followed her.  No time to take it back home so she boarded the train and shut the door.  As the train left the dog jumped on the track and followed.  At Arthog Station, some 8 miles from Dolgelly, the dog caught up with the train and was lifted in. The press reported "When the train arrived at Barmouth it was no worse for its long run and it enjoyed the visit to the seaside".

 

 

Further up the trail can be found Garth Isaf and the ruins of an old jetty which in the 1860s served the Tyn y Coed Slate Quarry. In November 1866 a young man was drilling a hole in a shelf of rock at the quarry when a mass weighing 4 tons fell onto him.  He died instantly.  His father and another young man who were working a few yards away had a very narrow escape.

More reminders of days gone by can be found with this line of rusting poles which at one time carried telegraph lines alongside the railway line.  Am I obsessed with things rotting and rusting?  Most definitely.  Being a genealogist I spend most of my time reading 19th. century newspapers and researching ancient archives.  When I escape from the computer I just love being on a long walks surrounded by beautiful scenery and interesting things and lost in my own thoughts.

 

One and a half hours into the walk and its time to rest my feet for a few minutes. A cheeky robin flutters down from the trees and joins me at the picnic bench.  Surprisingly he is not at all nervous of people and hops about quite happily chirping a joyful song.  Every now and then he cocks his head to one side and looks at me.  He makes me chuckle and encourages me on the way.

 

 

 

The next section of the trail reveals more rusty poles hidden amongst the shubbery.

 

 

 

 

 

Penpaenpool is a popular spot for tourists and locals alike with the George III Inn providing good food and drink.  The former Station Masters House and Waiting Room are now an annexe to the hotel. This was the perfect spot to stop for my picnic lunch. 

The Toll Bridge is still very much in operation with the cost of pedestrian access being set at a modest 20p.  My back-up plan, should my legs and feet not have been up to the whole 9 miles of the Mawddach Trail, was to cross the bridge at this point and catch the T3 bus on the otherside back to Barmouth.  Fortunately my legs seemed to get stronger with every mile covered so it was not a plan that had to be resorted to.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Along from the Toll Bridge stands the signal box dating from the 1930s and beyond that a basic toilet block for walkers and cyclists "on the trail".  Again notices request that due to social distancing regulations only one person at a time should enter.

 

The end of the trail now feels as if it is in sight - only a couple more miles to go.  To my left sheep are grazing in the green fields.

 

Then suddenly a horrid smell wafts in and I realise that hidden away in the lush foliage lies a sewerage treatment plant.  None of the guides to the trail had mentioned this. Turning away from the stench there is just enough time to snap a photo of the beautiful river - oh how deceiving photos can be!

 

Having managed to very carefully cross the A493 I come to another beautiful section of the walk.  Either side of the path, a metre tall, grows Himalayan Balsam.  The bees absolutely love this but apparently it is considered to be one of Great Britain's "Top 20" Alien plants and is really difficult to control.

 

The path then crosses back to the south side of the river and leaves the walker (or cyclist) with a choice of directions in which to go - left or right.  There are no signs to indicate which is the Mawddach Trail and for the first time all day I felt lost.  First I turn right, then I retrace my steps and turn left, then I go back again. 

 

Eventually I have to resort to using OS maps on my phone which shows me exactly where I am and which direction I need to head in.  Apparently the bridge was built in 2012 so perhaps the signage was removed at that time and never replaced?  Thankfully I do find my way into Dolgellau and this photo marks the end of a truly beautiful 9 mile walk.  The car park next to the bridge is the location for another set of toilets for those in need.  A big GOLD STAR is awarded for provision of public toilets in Wales - facilities which are so often missing within England.

 

 

The T3 bus is the route back to Barmouth with a rather hefty £3.90 fare but then that is only because my concessionary bus pass is not valid in Wales.  How one comes to rely on it.  Well done legs and feet for carrying me along.  That evening I could be found sitting on The Prom at Barmouth watching the sun set.

The Strawberry Line - Cheddar to Axbridge to Winscombe

The recent heatwave put a stop to long walks along the beach or in the countryside - in fact stepping foot into the garden even proved too hot at times.   Once the temperature dropped back down to the 20s the footpaths beckoned and it was time to set off again.  At present The Strawberry Line runs from Yatton to Cheddar but as time goes on it is hoped to open up the whole 30 mile route from Clevedon to Shepton Mallet. 

My own walk this week started with a bus ride from Weston to Cheddar.  It is an hourly service which runs between Weston and Wells through the beautiful Somerset countryside and villages/towns of Banwell, Winscombe, Axbridge and Cheddar.  The 9am bus arrived at Cheddar at 9.55 and the area was deserted.  A few cafe's showed signs of life but most of the touristy shops had signs declaring that they opened at 11am.  No doubt this will change in a couple of weeks once the holiday season really begins.  For now it was just pleasant to enjoy the peace and tranquility.

Toilet facilities are available in the complex at Dag's Hole and in Cliff Street.

The Strawberry Line footpath/cycle way begins on the outskirts of town at the back of a small industrial complex. The entrance can be seen to the right of the following photo:

I have to admit that the first section was very uninspiring - just the back alley to a housing estate but then it could only get better.

Oh dear, perhaps I spoke too soon.  At the end of the back alley were big signs saying the footpath was CLOSED.  Diversion signs pointed up to a road.  That was fine but past experience has taught me that diversion signs can disappear mid way along a route.  There was no indication as to what route the diversion took or how far out of the way it might take me.  Did I have the nerve to chance it?  Well I had come all this way so it would be pretty silly to give in now.  I would try the diversion and if I felt uncomfortable at any point then I could always retrace my steps.

As it happens I have to give credit to Bristol Water.  The diversion route was very well sign posted and actually took me right up to Cheddar Reservoir.  I did not know that there was a footpath running around the perimeter of the reservoir so this information has been filed away for future use.  As the photo shows it was a cloudy morning and showers threatened but thankfully the rain stayed away.

Back on the original path I find the route runs through fields a few hundred yards back from the reservoir.  Picnic areas and benches are provided along this section giving wonderful views.

But all too soon I reached the outskirts of Axbridge. 

The next couple of miles of the route runs along streets leading into the centre of town.  A beautiful ancient medieval market town with old wooden buildings leaning over the narrow streets.

The perfect place to have a break.  I can highly recommend the The Almhouse Tea Shop (opposite King John's Hunting Lodge) which has seating on two floors plus a tiny outside courtyard area.  Delightful setting with delicious menu of sandwiches and paninis.  Also doggy friendly!

Setting off again I made my way up to the main road where I needed to find the footpath leading out of town.  Once again very well sign posted.  But a word of warning - this section is uphill!!

The Strawberry Line now meanders through beautiful countryside with stunning views.  Might that be Glastonbury Tor in the distance?

Very occasionally one stumbles across another lone walker taking a break

The next sector map showed that Shute Shelve Tunnel was coming up

I have to admit that I was NOT ready for this part of the route.  The signs warn that cyclists should put their lights on.  What about walkers?  I admit that I carry a lot but I had never thought to pop a torch in the bag!  

Apparently the tunnel is home to several species of bats and (wait for it) rare cave spiders!!!!  No alternative but to take a deep breath and go for it.  A sign near the entrance instructed one should keep to the left and I did just that.  The only lights inside were a line of dim lights running along the centre of the floor.  I obeyed instructions keeping to the left of these.  Cripes, a third of the way in it became incredibly dark.  Thankfully I was picking my steps carefully because all of a sudden I bumped into what felt like railings sticking out from the wall.  If I had been a cyclist they could have thrown me off the bike.  Thank goodness the little dot of light which was the exit was getting larger with every step.  This was a little too like the Railway Children for my liking!

A group of workmen were gathered at the far exit and as I emerged blinking at the bright light of day they laughed as I said "That was some EERIE experience"!  It was a delight to be out in the fresh air and only another mile and a half to Winscombe.

Looking at my watch I saw that a bus was due in 15 minutes.  I decided to call it a day and continue with the next, very short, section to Sanford at the weekend.  Winscombe Parish Council took over and refurbished the public toilets back in 2014 when the council announced they would be closed.  A big thank you to the good people of Winscombe!  The toilet block is just down a pathway from The Strawberry Line.

Burning the calories between Brean and Burnham

Today's walk starts off at Brean Village Hall where I find a footpath running up from behind the bus shelter & public conveniences. The going is difficult slipping and sliding on the soft sand but I make it to the top and am greeted with the sight of the beautiful beach.

It's really blustery today so my sunhat has to be tucked away in my bag.  The goal today is to walk the 6-7 miles from Brean to Burnham-on-Sea.  This part of the Coastal Path is all along the beach and is the second longest stretch of sand in Europe. How wonderful seeing it stretched out before me.  Nothing but sand and sea with a brilliant blue sky above.

As with yesterday it is not long before I spot those monsters of the deep.  Huge, huge jelly fish beached on the sand.  Honestly, the beach is virtually littered with the creatures.   My mind goes back to childhood and the TV series of Quatermass!

A couple of miles further on & I meet a horse and rider.  Forget about the view.  Forget about the waves pounding on the beach.  Forget about everything except the Smartphone.  What a world it is that we live in!!

The waves certainly show how blustery it is today - churning up the soft sand and turning the sea a muddy brown. 

Good job I purchased a take away coffee in Costa before boarding the bus in Weston because there are no coffee shops here.  Oh but wait a moment - what is that ahead?  It's certainly no match for Costa Coffee or Starbucks but I suppose it would do if you were desperate.

As I glance across the bay I can make out the hazy shape of Hinkley Point C - the new nuclear power station.  Such a blot on the landscape.  Those of us who live on the north coast of Somerset wouldn't stand a chance if that suffered a melt down. I wonder whether I would need to revert to teachings from the 1960s when those of us working in London were told that in the event of a nuclear attack we should shelter under a tin bath in some large open space!!!!  Honestly, I kid you not.

Today all I have to shelter under is my hoody!

As I walk I am mesmerised by the light sparkling on the wet sand.

So much so that before I know it I find I am in deep s**t.  Without realising I have walked into a trough of very wet sand and it is quickly oozing up over my shoes.  Cripes, the last thing I need is to get stuck in sinking sand!  I manage to squirm my way to safety but my shoes tell all!

The scenery is really magical but from now on I MUST concentrate on where I am and where I am going.  No more getting lost in my own little world.

After one and a half hours I spot Burnham in the distance.  

 

The first sign of getting back to civilisation is when I pass the old Lighthouse on stilts.  This was built way back in 1832 but still stands firm against the winds.

 Having reached Burnham-on-Sea it is now time for me to leave the beach.

And head off along the Prom towards Britain's shortest pier.  I know that a few yards further down the Esplanade can be found Burnham's public toilets.   These are free, unlike those in Weston-super-Mare.

The No. 20 bus stop is at the top of Pier Street and after my two hour walk I am more than ready to flop onto the bus.  How lucky I am to have a walk such as this just a bus ride away from home.  I shall do this walk again - after the influx of holiday makers have left!