The Belle of Beach Road

Today the weather is hot & humid in Somerset and my mind drifts back to 2009 when I made my first visit to Singapore – and more importantly to Raffles.  Somerset Maugham had said that “Raffles stands for all the fables of the exotic East” and how right he was.  Whilst resting in the courtyard shaded with huge palms and ferns one could easily imagine tales of romance and intrigue from the past – it was a haven of tranquility & solitude.  

James Michener had said “to have been young & to have had a room at Raffles was probably life at its best” – I certainly could not afford a room but I could bathe in its history for a few brief moments.  On that first visit I treated myself to morning tea in Ah Teng’s Bakery on the ground floor.  The walls were covered with dark wooden cupboards which stretched from floor to ceiling and had the feel of a traditional Chinese shop.  On a later visit I headed for the Writers’ Bar where Somerset Maugham and Rudyard Kipling would have spent many hours.  This is what I wrote at the time:

Here I am sitting in The Writers Bar at Raffles taking my morning tea.  How do I begin to describe it?  High ceilings sit atop heavily stuccoed pillars; huge ceiling fans gently waft cool air and then there are the immense golden chandeliers in the adjoining Raffles Grill.  The Writers Bar has red brocade armchairs set around little tables. Tall veranda doors are framed with delicately draped mushroom coloured velvet curtains and the doors open out onto the Palm Courtyard.  

A family of birds has taken up residence in the lobby area - the fledgling is following Mum around squeaking and fluttering its little wings.  They perch on the backs of the chairs, hop around on the carpet and fly all around chirping happily - even landing on the chandeliers.

I am the only one in here!  Tranquil solitude - nothing beats it.  This is the ONLY place to write - as Somerset Maugham once did.  Pink & white orchids in Chinese blue and white porcelain pots sit on  the tables and there are palms all around.   Tea is served by waiters in crisp white uniforms and gloves.  The tea pot handle has a protective cover placed over it to prevent me from burning myself.  The china is decorated with Raffles insignia and the feeling of being here is one of pure magic.  I sit and dream of one day being able to afford to stay a couple of nights in this very hotel.

As yet, I have still not been able to afford that dream !

  The Writers' Bar, Raffles

But this blog is about spending a penny and what better place to do that than in the Ladies Toilets within the Raffles Shopping Arcade.  Way back then the thought had not entered my head that one day I would be blogging about such places but for some reason I did have the foresight to sneak a photo of the wash basins seated in black marble with their chunky brass taps and soap dispensers.  All so traditional.

Raffles was known as the Belle of Beach Road and I can certainly recommend a visit to do some shopping in the arcade and partake of tea in either Ah Teng’s Bakery or the Writers’ Bar – or perhaps YOU might prefer a Singapore Sling in the Long Bar !

Whatever you decide to do - enjoy.